I tried not to set too high an expectation of Taipei so that I will enjoy my long-deserved holiday without any pressure or pre-conceived expectations. So on the first night when we touched down in Taipei's Taoyuan International Airport, we headed straight for the hotel we have pre-booked on the Internet - the Wonstar Hotel at Songshan Road. After we have checked in and washed up, the night is still young and our stomach is growling. We decided to visit the Raohe Street Night Market, which is a 10-min walking distance from the hotel and situated near the Songshan railway station. Though it is not as famous or huge as the Shihlin Night Market, it is still an interesting and eye-opening experience as you can find all kinds of cheap buys, and exotic local snacks and delicacies in the night market, not to mention the thrills of jostling with the crowds and bargaining with the locals. In fact, this night market actually whets my appetite for more.
Shoppers' Haven
If you are thinking of revamping your wardrobe, a must-visit is the Wufenpu Fashion District, which sells all kinds of adult and kids' clothings at relatively cheap wholesale prices. We were fortunate in that our hotel was just in the vicinity of Wufenpu, so we could just walk around the area till late into the night as most of the shops there closed past midnight. As the Wufenpu area is rather large with probably over 100 shops, we have had the convenience of coming back more than once since our hotel is just around the corner. However, don't expect high quality design and material as most of these clothings are mass produced for wholesale or retail. It's a good place to stock up on your kids' clothes as you will be spoilt for choice. If you have an exclusive taste for more quality clothes, then look beyond Wufenpu to the very posh Taipei 101 Mall, Breeze Centre, SOGO and Shin Kong Mitsukoshi department stores for an entirely different and upscale shopping experience.
Ximenting is to Taipei, what Myeongdong is to Seoul and Orchard Road is to Singapore. This hip and fashionable district in Taipei will appeal not only to the young and trendy but also the fashion-conscious yuppies and those who just want to soak in the hippy culture. If you are there, make sure you have at least one meal at this 2-storey eatery called (Lao Pu) Mei Guan Yuan located at 36 Ermei street. We had a simple but satisfying dinner of Omelette Rice and Pork Rib rice (with free flow of Chinese tea). The food tastes good and price is reasonable. After dinner, you can stroll around Ximenting, which has plenty of niche shops selling the latest gadgets, fashion clothes and accessories.
Another must-see when in Taipei is the much acclaimed Taipei 101 Mall. Standing at an impressive 508 metres tall, it is touted as the world's tallest building and lauded for its unique architectural design. The place is so posh that no slippers or slipshod attire are allowed in. For an admission fee of NT$400, you can take the elevator to the 89th floor observation level in just 37 seconds for a spectacular view from the top of the observatory tower. Between the 88th and 92nd floors is the world's largest tuned mass damper, designed to reduce earthquake and wind sway. An upscale mall, bookstore and restaurants occupy the lower level of the tower. Come New Year's eve every year, the building turns into a dazzling colors of fireworks display.
Old World Charm
Away from the hustle and bustle of the Taipei city is a tranquil and beautiful place called Danshui Old Streets. It is easily accessible via the MRT line from Taipei Main Station to Danshui Station. The former busy seaport is now a laidback little town where you can capture a flavour of the past. It's best to Visit in the evening when you can catch a glimpse of the breathtakingly beautiful sunset as the whole area is fronting the river with the mountains in the backdrop. We were there one evening and relaxed at a Dunkin' Donuts alfresco cafe, people-watching with a steaming cup of cappucino and a lip-smacking doughnut. There is also free entertainment from a street busker. We took a leisurely stroll along the river, watched the sun set and breathed in the fresh sea breeze. If you have time, you can also visit the nearby Lover's Bridge and Fisherman's Wharf.
Like Danshui, Jiufen Hill City is another simple town with an old soul. But unlike Danshui which is easily accessible by MRT from Taipei city, Jiufen is much further up in the mountains. This former gold-mining town was built on a steep mountain slope, thus the whole area is very misty and cooling, and is said to rain almost 250 out of 365 days there. Hence Jiufen is also named as the "City of Sadness", which derived from the same name as the award-winning movie directed by famous Taiwanese movie director Hou Hsiao-Hsien, who used Jiufen as the backdrop for the movie which won two Venice awards in 1991. This quaint little town has a spectacular mountain and sea views at the top. You can spend at least half a day here visiting the many interesting shops selling antiques, traditional local delicacies like taro balls, snacks, tidbits and sweets, and specially hand-made souvenirs and handicrafts like the wooden clogs for both adults and kids. For a taste of authentic Taiwanese snacks and tidbits, you can also head down to this specialty shop named Vigor Kobo which sells popular sweets like the pineapple mini cakes, pork floss and all flavours of mochi, to name a few.
Eye-opening Day Tour
To explore further outside Taipei city, we booked a day trip to the Martyrs' Shrine, Jiufen, Yehliu Geological Park and Shihlin Night Market for NT$700 per person. It was quite value for money as it saved us a lot of travelling time and we were able to relax and just enjoy our tour instead of worrying about how to travel from one destination to another.
A trip to the Martyrs' Shrine was like taking a mini history lesson. The shrine was built to remember and honour the soldiers who had fought and sacrificed their lives in the war against the Japanese and the Communists. Look out for the changing of the guards ceremony which comprises the army, navy and air force soldiers. It was quite an eye-opening performance.
If you love nature and wants a taste of the outdoors, then you must not miss the Yehliu Geological Park. This ocean-front scenic area is similar to the Great Ocean Road in Melbourne. The oddly shaped stone and rock structures were formed as a result of years of eco-nature change of the sun, sea and wind. On closer look and using a little imagination, you may even see some rocks resemble the shape of animals. One, in particular, looks very much like a woman's head with a crown on top, hence the name "The Queen's Head".
Therapeutic Hotsprings
Besides food and shopping, Taiwan is also well-known for its hot springs. One of the more popular ones - Beitou Hot Spring - is a mere 30-min MRT ride from Taipei Main Station. When you are there, do drop by the Beitou Hot Spring Museum which reveals the 400-year history of the Beitou Hot Spring. The museum contains artifacts and photographs explaining the original public bathouses and the development of hot springs in Taiwan. Beitou used to be inhabited by the aborigine Ketagalan tribe, who called the fuming, sulfurous place "patauw" which means "witch" as they believed it to be the dwelling place of sorceresses. It's from this word that the name "Beitou" is derived. The Beitou Hot Spring Museum used to be the Beitou Public Bathhouse built by the Japanese colonial government in 1913. It was later transformed into a museum and historical site in 1997. Xinbeitou, an extension of Beitou, has mushroomed many hotspring houses and motels in recent years. The sulphurous spring water, ranging at temperatures of 52 to 75 degree Celsius, is said to be good for treating skin ailments, sore muscles and arthritis. However, those who are pregnant or have high blood pressure or heart problems are not recommended for hot springs. And do remember to bring along your swimsuit as most of the public hotsprings require customers to wear them.
All in all, Taipei is a unique city of old rural charm and hip urban chic. It's a place one should visit at least once to experience its contrasting beauty of the old and the new. But due to time constraints, this five-day vacation (28 October - 1 November) did not allow us to explore other parts of Taiwan. Perhaps if we return one day, we may take the express train to visit Taichung, Tainan and Kaoshiung.
Footnote: The motel we stayed in - Wonstar Hotel at Songshan Road - is value for money. For about S$100 per night, the room is small but fully furnished with a 32" LCD TV to boot. The room is also cosy and very clean. The best part of this hotel is that Wufenpu is just a stone's throw away from the hotel. The only gripe is the complimentary breakfast, which is the same every day and there is not much variety. But you can always choose to forgo the hotel's breakfast and opt for the many eateries around the hotel.
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