Beijing Beckons

Some people say Beijing is not as exciting as Shanghai or as picturesque as Suchou, but this Chinese capital has its unique attractions too. The Tiananmen Square, which occupies a 44-hectare area, marked several historical events in particular the tragic 1989 Cultural Revolution that killed thousands of students who protested against the ruling communist party. Though it’s more than a decade when I stepped on the ground of the Square, there were some sentiments for the innocent blood shed there.

Then there is the Forbidden City – undergoing renovation works (when I was there last April)for the upcoming Olympics in 2008. It’s beneficial to pay for a guided tour to these attractions as the tour guide would explain the historical background and share other interesting gossips of the places you visit. For example, did you know that there are 9,999 rooms inside the Forbidden City because the number ‘9’ symbolizes power? Or, the colours purple, yellow and red predominate in the Forbidden City because purple symbolizes royalty, yellow for power, and red a symbol of happiness and luck?

Of course, you must not miss a trip to The Great Wall. This world-famous landmark, also hailed as one of the Seven Wonders of the World, is a true test of one’s fitness and endurance as not everyone could make that tedious climb to the top. But the breathtaking view at the top is well-worth the effort. The best time to visit The Great Wall is spring when it’s not too hot as in summer, too chilling in winter, or too windy in autumn. Still, the wind can get pretty strong up there (your hat may get blown off!). The air also gets very dry the higher you climb. While you are having a great time at these tourist attractions, be alert and look out for pickpockets and pushy touts – which are quite rampant in the tourist areas.

Beijing is also a great place for shopping if you know where to go. If you are looking for silk clothing or souvenirs, Silk Street has almost every silk item for anyone. Located not too far from the China World Hotel, the shopping centre sells mainly silk dresses, cloths, accessories and even pearl costume jewellery. But make sure you bargain as the prices are usually marked up.

For those who have a penchant for jades, the Beijing Long Di Jade Carving Factory is one place you might want to drop by. Here, you would get to see how jade is being molded into exquisite jewellery, accessories and antiques. You would also learn how to differentiate between authentic jades from the fakes. Though prices here are fixed, you can try bargaining if you are genuinely interested to buy.

The ultimate shopping haven is really at Wangfujing Street, where you can grab interesting souvenirs for just S$2. The long stretch of shopping street is fanned by rows of retail shops selling all kinds of assorted souvenirs, clothing, watches, jewellery and food products. Around the corner is the Wangfujing Food Street with many small eateries and restaurants, including McDonald’s and Kentucky Fried Chicken that span two storeys. The Food Street is also where you can try unusual exotic fare like the ‘live’ wriggly bugs I saw in one eatery.

For those who want to shop in style, there are the bigger departmental stores like the Sun Dong An Plaza and Dong An Department Store, where you can find familiar brands like BreakTalk, StarBucks and Haagen Dazs. The Malls at Oriental Plaza is another huge shopping mall at Wangfujing Street. It houses international brands like Paul Smith, Valentino, Givenchy and Dunhill, for the well-heeled shoppers. It’s no wonder Wangfujing Street is the favourite shopping haunt for both the locals and tourists in Beijing.

Seductive Seoul

If you’re holidaying on a budget, splurging on a luxurious hotel may not be a wise choice. Do your homework before you set off. The Internet offers a myriad of hotels and accommodations of varying standards and budgets. I managed to find the Uljiro CO-OP Residence – a no-frills apartment that comes equipped with a tiny kitchen with basic utensils for cooking and boiling water; a bed, wardrobe, table with TV and an attached bathroom. But don’t expect any bathroom luxuries, bring your own toiletries.

The good thing about this apartment is its reasonable price at S$110 per night, for its prime location near the Dongdaemun Stadium station and major shopping malls that open till five in the morning. The famous Dongdaemun night markets are just a stone’s throw away, so I actually saved on transport fare. Right across the street from the Uljiro are also many small eateries and family-run restaurants. You can’t ask for a better located accommodation at this price.

Tips: Make sure you go to a reputable website to book your accommodation online. The Korea National Tourism Organisation’s official website also provides online hotel bookings amongst other useful information of touring in Korea. Armed yourself with as much information as possible, since travelling free and easy in a country that speaks mainly Korean can be quite a challenge.


Shopping Haven
Shopping in Korea is said to be the next best alternative to shopping in Japan, as you can find the trendiest fashion for the season at much lower prices than in Japan. Korean brand skincare products are one of the best buys as they cost much lower than those you find off the shelves in Watson. Imitation branded goods like bags and wallets are aplenty, so you can now get that Prada or Gucci bag without splurging a fortune. But the best part about shopping in Korea is that some of the malls are open till five the next morning!

Dongdaemun
Just about 10 minutes’ walk from my hotel, I came upon the swanky Doota Mall (at Doosan Tower) – an upscale shopping mall with a revolving door and nine storeys of the latest fashion craze in Korea. I was especially fascinated with the unique names associated with each level, such as Cherry Zone, where you can find sexy lingerie, nail bar and even tarot reading service; Character Zone, which highlights individualistic fashion wear for young women; and Dandy Club, where you can get a pair of local designer jeans for about 68,000 won (approx. S$108).



If you’re a shoe or bag lady, head straight to the Shoes & Bags Plaza on the fourth floor. Here, you can find a galore of the latest and hippest shoes and bags that you’ll be spoilt for choice. Go for brands like ‘Salt’ if you like boots and high-platform shoes; or ‘La Lori’ which sells hand-stitched sequined bags and hand-painted bags of various colours and creative designs; for trendy belts with quirky buckles, look out for the brand name ‘Arnaldobassini’. If you love brands like Louis Vuitton, Chanel or Dior but are not willing to burn a hole in your pocket for them, check out the fake branded bags that look and smell like the real thing! But there are no price tags, so you might want to bargain. My only grouse was the sales assistants here don’t speak English, so communication was a major problem. You may have to use hand gestures or better yet, bring a pen and notebook to facilitate your bargains. Tired from the shopping spree? Take a rest and sip a cuppa at the Café Festina Lente. A cup of latte here costs 2,800 won (slightly over S$4), though. If you want to save your moolah for your shopping, bring your own bottle of water.

The other modern shopping malls in the vicinity include Hello A/PM (don’t ask me why it’s named that way), Migliore and Freya Town, which boasts over 3,000 stores selling men and women’s fashion, leather goods, gadgets, as well as a floor devoted to children’s goods and toys. Prices are not cheap in these malls, but you may get some 20 per cent discount if you shop in the wee hours as most of the shopping malls here are opened till five in the morning.

If you’re still bouncing like an Energiser Bunny after all the mall-hopping, you might want to drop by the famous Dongdaemum night market just around the corner for some good bargains. This mega-sized, open-air market boasts an enormous number of shops and stalls selling everything under the sun at wholesale prices: from clothes and accessories, Korean souvenirs and artifacts, to food and skincare products. You might even come across the occasional stall selling pungent fried bugs. Try it if you dare.

Myeong-Dong
My fave shopping experience was at Myeong-Dong, which reminds me of Singapore’s bustling Orchard Road. Just take the subway and alight at Myeong-Dong station. Lined with hip fashion boutiques, upscale shopping malls and numerous eateries, it’s the most fashionable shopping district in Seoul and very popular amongst the young Koreans. Be adventurous to search out the smaller eateries for authentic Korean food that won’t set you back by more than S$10. In the evening, street stalls start appearing outside the swanky malls selling Korean souvenirs and knick-knacks. You can get some good finds like T-shirts and socks with branded logos such as Dior, Louis Vuitton, and D&C, as well as fake branded handbags like Gucci and Prada that cost around 45,000 won (S$72) onwards. However, bargaining can be a challenge as most of these Koreans don’t speak English. Over at the UTOO Zone shopping mall, prices are on the high side, so if you’re on a shoestring budget, you may skip it and shop at the smaller retail outlets in Myeong Dong where prices are cheaper. My best buys here include some Korean brand facial masks at less than S$3 per piece, and this gem of a pair of Louis Vuitton sandals (imitation ones that include other brands like Gucci, Prada and Fendi) for just 10,000 won (about S$16).

Itaewon
Of all the places in Korea, this is where you would find the most foreigners because the U.S. army base is located here. Communication is also easier as most of the shop assistants here could speak some English. But personally, I found shopping in this area quite a letdown compared to the other areas in Myeong-Dong and Dongdaemun. There isn’t much to see at Itaewon, except for a long stretch of streets with shops on both sides. There are several western eateries here like Outback Steakhouse, Subway and KFC, so if you are not big on Korean food, you would be grateful for some western fare and finger-licking fried chicken.

Tips: Most of the fashion wear at large shopping malls are a little pricey. If you’re budget conscious, go on a shopping spree after midnight at those malls that open till five in the morning and you might be lucky to get some discounts. If fashion is not a criterion, the Dongdaemun and Namdaemun night markets which boast a wide variety of goods at wholesale prices are better bets to satisfy your shopping lusts. Bring a mini calculator to bargain since English is not a common language in Korea.

Must-Try Korean Foods
There is no lack of eateries and restaurants in Korea. In every lane and alley, you will likely find a small family-run eatery offering authentic Korean food at reasonable prices. I tried one that is just across the street from the Uljiro CO-OP Residence apartment where I stayed. For just 4,500 won (S$7), you can have a big bowl of udon noodles garnished with lots of ingredients like shellfish, vegetables, mushrooms, fish cakes and steamed rice cake in a rich, tasty broth – a great meal to kick off on a cold freezing day.

Tips: Eat with caution as the spoon and chopsticks used are made of metal and can be scorching when dipped in a bowl of piping hot soup. Expect some communication hiccups when ordering your food as these family eateries are usually run by Koreans who do not speak English. Take a chance, look at the pictures on the menu, point at your orders, and pray for the best.

There are some Korean foods you absolutely have to try at least once. The bulgogi, or Korean beef marinated in a savory sauce and cooked over charcoal on a stone or metal plate till soft and succulent is usually served with rice and side dishes like kimchi and pickles.

The other well-known Korean food is the ginseng chicken soup whereby a whole young chicken is stuffed with glutinous rice, garlic, chestnuts and other herbs, then boiled in a rich thick broth for many hours.

One of my favourite Korean foods is the bibimbap, a common and colourful Korean dish which comprises rice mixed with different kinds of vegetables, beef strips, eggs with a dose of sesame oil and a pinch of chilli and pepper thrown in for extra flavour. It’s a healthy meal with lots of fibre and is very filling.

Korean foods are easily accessible at the Korean eateries and restaurants, even food courts that are inside every shopping malls, but the best way to experience authentic Korean foods at cheap prices is really at those small family eateries or make-shift roadside stalls. A substantial meal for two would cost not more than S$20. My only grouse is the communication barrier, so make sure you know what you are ordering; or just be game enough to try anything even if it turns out not what you have ordered.


Useful Tips
When I was there in late March, the weather was freezing cold though it’s end of winter and beginning of spring. Temperature can go down as low as minus 9 degree Celsius, and only as high as 12 degree Celsius. Bring appropriate clothing.

Try not to take the subway to and from the airport. The numerous stairways will be a hindrance for those carrying a lot of luggage. The efficient public transport system here makes travelling relatively easy. But make sure you are armed with a local map in case you get lost. And don’t bother to ask for directions as you are likely to get replies in Korean.